2rike
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Posts: 184 
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Post by 2rike on Sept 30, 2015 6:15:41 GMT -5
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 1, 2015 9:46:43 GMT -5
I am working on the near side (UK) lower side pod at the moment. I usually make my panels in tin first, then put flanges on the tin work and then take a GRP mould off that. Then I am ready to make the first proper panel out of the mould that is typical three layers of 450 CSM on top of a tissue and gel coat  |
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Post by captainamerica on Oct 2, 2015 6:43:44 GMT -5
You've done a nice job incorporating the bike into the chassis, it almost looks like it is supposed to be that way. How come the chassis seems like its barely tack welded together but your this far along in the project? Are you planning to cope the rear roll bar support into that chassis?
Also what are you using to form the steel (i assume, you said tin) wrapped around the engine in your latest picture? English wheel?
-Andrew
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 2, 2015 12:36:34 GMT -5
When I say its nearly finished, Captinamerica I mean I can drive it around and all the controls are in and working , when all the body panels are finished on it then I will strip it all down and weld it up completely (there are still a lot of tac welds still) and as you pointed out the back of the chassis needs fully welding with some gusset etc and it may have a little panel to tidy it up.
As for the tin work (0.8mm sheet steel) its all bent round bits or pipe or wood or anything that has the right sort of shape, then body filler to make small correction, after all its only a former for the mould
I would love an english wheel, but there looks to be a lot of skill required to use one.
My big question I cannot find an answer to is "will I be able to use the bike seat as a 2+1 for occasional use" in UK
Your RT is a fantastic piece of engineering I like your style!
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Post by captainamerica on Oct 2, 2015 13:59:28 GMT -5
I really hope you're joking about the third seat, however if you're not I expect video from you on the street with 2 passengers  The idea of taking a second person over my gas tank and having them hold onto the roll hoop is a jest often made around my workplace. I wasn't questioning whether you were done, you just seem fairly far along (bodywork built) to still be questioning if the chassis bars are in the correct positions. I would be afraid to start the body without a finished chassis as things move when they are welded, maybe not much, but it can get annoying. I would be interested in seeing more build pictures if you have them and what you did for the front suspension/pedal layout/front chassis structure, its all hidden in the bodywork. My trike turned out in spite of its builder, but the next one will be quite nice, learning from my mistakes. |
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 3, 2015 14:25:30 GMT -5
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 6, 2015 7:01:43 GMT -5
Here is how I have made a rear light housing to go on the rear side pod that I am making[/p] the first job was to make a wood pattern of the shape I required then to take a quick mould and then I could get a moulding out of it to be trimmed to the final shape.I then had an identical light housing for the other side!
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 6, 2015 7:13:00 GMT -5
The light housing being fitted to the rear side pod. This is only the "buck" from which I will take a mould and make the panel in fibreglass that will go on the trike  |
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 22, 2015 14:04:06 GMT -5
This is the metal rear side pod "Buck" or former, all filled up and rubbed down ready for the mould primer coat before I take a GRP mould off it! And this is the mould made off the 2rike rear side pod buck. It just requires a few coats of polish and then I can mould my first panel out of it!   |
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Post by captainamerica on Oct 23, 2015 11:37:09 GMT -5
Could you walk through your process of pulling a mold off the buck? I know how this is done generally but usually from foam, how do you prep the steel, any differences here? and how many layers do you used to make the mold from the pattern? Your works looks quite nice. Also what GRP and resin do you use? wet layup I assume, vacuum bagged?
-Andrew
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2rike
Full Member
Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Oct 23, 2015 15:14:25 GMT -5
When I make a buck panel i often use a combination of sheet steel , wood ,plywood and finish it with polyester body filler to get it smooth, the trick is then to use a "mould primer" which is just a type of polyester resin like a high build primer that you can brush on and then sand down to a good finish. the main thing that it does is seal the porous surfaces like the wood and gives a uniform finish when the buck has been flatted down to a smooth finish that you are happy with, then it is time to polish it with a wax polish about five or six times. Then sponge on a thin coat of PVA release agent and leave to dry. You're ready to start with a gel coat (brushed on) followed by three layers of 450g chopped strand matt and then another two more after the first three have cured. that's to stop to much heat building up in the mould and distorting it. After 24 hours you can pop it of with wooden or plastic wedges, wash the PVA off the mould trim the edges and you have made your mould!  This is my latest mould that I have just laid up with 3 layers of 450g CSM , hopefully this will be on the 2rike by the end of the weekend! |
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Post by skifffz1to3 on Oct 30, 2015 23:35:34 GMT -5
nice work
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Nov 1, 2015 14:22:34 GMT -5
Frenched the light pod moulding into the O/S rear side pod to match the other side and fixed both side pods to the frame with dzus fasteners. Thats the rear lights sorted out on the 2rike then!   |
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Nov 11, 2015 9:32:20 GMT -5
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dain
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Posts: 63
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Post by dain on Nov 11, 2015 10:30:40 GMT -5
Very clean integration of the R1 - looks like about a 98'?
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Nov 11, 2015 16:57:44 GMT -5
Very clean integration of the R1 - looks like about a 98'? Thanks for that dain, I am pleased with how it's turning out. You're not far out there with the year, the bike is 1999 with 26000 miles on the clock two previous owners.the chap at the motorbike shop was mortified after I bought and I told him what i was going to do with it! later when he put the road tyre on the rear wheel for me he was impressed with the build and wants to follow progress Attachment Deleted Attachment DeletedAttachment Deleted |
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Nov 11, 2015 18:47:42 GMT -5
I am following your build. Looks so good so far. You may want to see if there are any heaver clutch springs to replace the light duty ones. A lot of trike riders have found the RPM's at high speed do not reflect what they should be and found clutch slippage issues.
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2rike
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Posts: 184
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Post by 2rike on Nov 12, 2015 3:35:35 GMT -5
I am following your build. Looks so good so far. You may want to see if there are any heaver clutch springs to replace the light duty ones. A lot of trike riders have found the RPM's at high speed do not reflect what they should be and found clutch slippage issues. Hello Dave, As I get near the end of 2 year build I am looking forward to getting it on the road and that will be the next chapter of tweaking/developing and setting it up to handle properly and getting the most out of the bike power plant and transmission One thing I have noticed is that when I set off the back end lifts (the swinging arm drops effectively, Its on a soft setting) Is this part of how this type of set up works in a trike? And also do people tend to use stock sprockets that are standard on the bike? The reason I ask is that I have a single seat race car (Its an old Formula ford with the Yamaha exup engine that I converted to compete in the under 1100cc racing car class.) that I hillclimb and that has a big rear sprocket on the wheel and I only use the first 3 gears, its very quick and still does 90mph on the straights. I have not had it out for years! But it was the reason I chose the R1 to build my 2rike out of
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Post by Liteway on Nov 12, 2015 10:04:03 GMT -5
About the swing arm dropping:
This is more commonly known as "jacking" and is the result of the drive wheel thrusting itself forward under the front pivot point on the sing arm,exerting an upward push on the pivot point.
There are a lot of affecting factors. There is a complex relationship between the height of the rear axle, the height of the front pivot on the swingarm , the angle and length of the swing arm and the relative position of the drive sprocket.
On a motorcycle with rider, there is a very high center of gravity as compared to your trike as configured. That results in a tendency for the rear to squat (opposite of jack)as weight transfers to the rear under acceleration. The bike maker builds in rear swing arm geometry to counter act that. Now, as you transfer that geometry to a trike, jacking is to be expected.
You should be able to tune some of it out with adjustments in ride height which affects swing arm angle. The lower the ride height, the less jacking should occur.
The jacking is not only annoying but can unsettle the chassis in corners by suddenly raising the center of gravity when power is applied. Spin city.
You will need to drop a tooth or two on the counter sprocket to save the clutch, d**n close ratios and tall first gears in sport bikes.
By the way, nice trike.
Later: just looked at your FB page. Lots of cool fab work with different materials. Glad we have you on the site.
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The idea of taking a second person over my gas tank and having them hold onto the roll hoop is a jest often made around my workplace.
