ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 10, 2016 9:42:02 GMT -5
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Post by noahkatz on Jun 10, 2016 13:09:12 GMT -5
I like your engine choice.
I'd be careful about fast cornering; narrow track and highish CG means risk of rolling over.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 10, 2016 17:45:51 GMT -5
Thanks, I will keep the cornering suggestion in mind.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 14, 2016 9:13:31 GMT -5
The Tri-Star is not your typical reverse trike. Yes it has a high C.G. , but in it's design that was taken into account. With the broad width of the VW double beam front axle and the added length of the Suzuki it makes for a stable platform. I have married the brake system of a VW with that of a motorcycle with three disc brakes. All control systems were moved forward from the motorcycle to the cockpit. Many of the motorcycle parts were also moved forward and re-used. The Tri-Star is an enclosed RT with windows that open and three flow thru vents , two located on each side of the floor area and one roof mounted , all with dampers that can be closed. This RT uses a reverse camera for backing up and for viewing of rear traffic. One unconventional design is the "Landing Gear". If you look on the right rear you will see this devise, it allows for reverse and forward of the RT even with the motor off. It will extend and retract as needed , allowing the small wheel to come into contact with the ground. The theme of the Tri-Star is that of a WW2 P-40 Flying Tiger aircraft, using that paint scheme and insignia.
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Post by noahkatz on Jun 16, 2016 17:52:58 GMT -5
Yes it has a high C.G. , but in it's design that was taken into account. Not to give you a hard time, but...OK I will. How was it taken into account? And I wouldn't call the VW front end wide, not for a 4 wheeler and *definitely* not for a 3 wheeler.
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Post by mtntech on Jun 18, 2016 10:38:58 GMT -5
Yes it has a high C.G. , but in it's design that was taken into account. And I wouldn't call the VW front end wide, not for a 4 wheeler and *definitely* not for a 3 wheeler. I would agree. Best to take it to a big open space and find it's handling limits. Has it been driven on public roads yet? Have you calculated the C of G Height?
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 24, 2016 16:32:20 GMT -5
Here is the latest pictures of the Tri-Star RT after the initial mockup completed and moving into the paint phase. The next step will be final assembly. Updated steps in this process will be posted.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 29, 2016 9:04:20 GMT -5
Since coming on board, I thought it would benefit members to see how up to this point I started the "Tri-Star" RT build from the beginning. So I will be moving from the new member section to create a new thread here in the build section. A little background is needed. I presently work as a field service engineer, my company, Retro Cycles LLC., is a contractor in the semiconductor industry. I have built two prior builds, a Harley custom and a café racer. The Tri-Star was different. My concept was a home build, using proven systems such as the VW front axle, modify a used frame and of course a donor motorcycle. This tread will be show this process.
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Post by mtntech on Jun 29, 2016 9:21:57 GMT -5
Cool. Looking forward to the build pics.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 29, 2016 22:43:12 GMT -5
Well this is the starting point. I picked up a Manco XTK 13 frame minus front and rear axles. My thought throughout this build is to use already fabricated items whenever possible. Again I am a strong believer in building it yourself. Yes, I could have bought a kit, a production model of numerous brands, but I wanted built by "Retro Cycles LLC". One of a kind. This frame is 1.25" moly steel. The configuration was perfect, it was a dual seat side by side, not what I had in mind. I heavy modified the frame. Cutting it in half and lowering the height of the "Roof". The frame allowed for savings in time and money. A simple investment of $250.
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Ray
Junior Member
Posts: 75
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Post by Ray on Jun 30, 2016 9:57:26 GMT -5
Great way to start. I started with a sand rail frame. I chopped it so much it barely resembles the original. It was made from 1" square tubing.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 30, 2016 11:38:36 GMT -5
Attachment Deleted Attachment DeletedHere is the frame fully modified. Cut in two, lowered roof, axle mounting plate w/bolts. This modification took be a day to figure it out. Must have had that axle in and out a dozen times. Also you can see in the picture the installed lift door. There is only one door in the Tri-Star. The VW axle, 1969 Beetle, was purchased local here in Phoenix for $250. Here I have completely disasemblied it down and in the process of sand blasting it. I later coated it with truck bed sealer.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 30, 2016 16:50:57 GMT -5
I had to modify the frame to accept the axle being lifted up to the frame to be bolted to it and the main mounting plate. I had planned to mount my panels to the frame using these weld on tabs and riveting the panels to the tabs. The photo shows the installation of the "Roof" and the force air /ram air scoop. Throughout the build steel rivets were used and purposely left exposed. What I wanted with this build is an industrial look, a motorcycle, the look of an aircraft from a different era. You will also notice that the front "Nose" of the vehicle is left open and exposed, with no use of panels, again an industrial look and feel. I moved toward a vehicle not all perfect, but ruff in nature, one of a kind.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jun 30, 2016 17:01:47 GMT -5
This is a point in the process that shows many weekends of labor. The photo shows most of the panel tabs welded in place. These tabs can be adjusted for the panel installation and cut down as needed. You can see the ram air scoop, this will have a closeable damper inside the cabin for air . Also shown is the two rear view mirror "Arms".
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jul 1, 2016 22:15:39 GMT -5
Attachment Deleted Attachment DeletedThis first picture shows the refurbed axle in place. The axle was fully rebuilt, new ball joints, tie rods and tie rod ends, coil over shocks, steering damper and disc. brake conversion kit w/all new bearings. The second picture shows the completed axle fully installed for mock up purposes. Look closely at the steering assembly, more on it later. As I said this is a mockup period, assembling for fit and function , then will be completely disassembled and painted. You will also see that I am moving into the sheet metal phase, perfect example is the fenders displayed in the second picture. These fenders were cut down, modified for the height of the coil over shocks, fender struts were made. In this application the fenders will turn with the wheels. The fender struts were 1/2" bar stock , drilled, bent with a torch/vise . The struts actually bolt onto the fender and brake caliper mounting bolts.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jul 1, 2016 22:55:24 GMT -5
I had been looking for several weeks as to find a suitable motorcycle for the project. I knew I wanted and engine 1000cc or bigger. I was also looking for something with a reverse like a Honda Goldwing. I was also looking for rear disc. brake, no drum brake. I came across the 2006 Suzuki Boulevard S83 , with 11k miles. With all the requirement made except reverse, it was the perfect platform for the project. The motorcycle was purchased for $2300. Front fork, seat, tank , windshield and foot peg assembly were removed. The top 1/3 of the frame's head tube was cut off, ground down and painted. The motorcycle was then moved into place, measured for lateral right to left alignment with the front axle and preparations for a five point frame to frame hookup started.
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jul 1, 2016 23:15:07 GMT -5
Cost of frame to frame mounts: $25. Attachment Deleted Attachment Deleted Attachment Deleted This the 5 point frame to frame mounting points . Photo #1 shows the point of the frame mount at the back end of the Tri-Star frame and the point on the S83 directly behind where the tank would sit . The mounting points come together and a 1/2" bolt and nut secures them. Photo #2 shows the point where the S83 frame next to the front cylinder is bolted with two 45 degree mating plates to the Tri-Star frame directly behind the firewall. This is on both sides . Photo #3 shows the "Trailer hitch" frame mount between the bottom of the S83 and the bottom of the Tri-Star. My design controls up and down movement, lateral left to right movement and a secure forward and back mounting point. Cost of five frame to frame mounts: $25.
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Ray
Junior Member
Posts: 75
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Post by Ray on Jul 2, 2016 10:11:02 GMT -5
Wow! You cut the bike frame and welded directly to it! Amazing. Are you not going to use the motorcycle VIN?
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Ray
Junior Member
Posts: 75
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Post by Ray on Jul 2, 2016 10:23:40 GMT -5
I was wondering about your front fenders. I want to do something like that. Did you start with something premade or did you manufacture it yourself? If so, what materials did you use?
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ernie
Junior Member
Posts: 41
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Post by ernie on Jul 2, 2016 14:40:37 GMT -5
Ray, In Arizona the Tri-Star is considered a modification to the motorcycle, like installing an extended fork to it. So the Suzuki and the Tri-Star becomes one under the Suzuki Vin.# There is also nothing else, no inspection, registration is the Suzuki. As far as the fenders, these were purchased online and I shortened them to fit, easier than building from scratch. Ernie
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