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Post by DaveJ98092 on Sept 20, 2014 11:15:12 GMT -5
I always use a weldable primer paint to shoot on bare metal. It keeps most flash rusting from happening. You can get it in a few colors too. Some are for steel and some for aluminum. Not too cheap but better than grinding rust off.
Just cut your part, shoot with primer, align and weld, shoot with primer again. You just weld thru it.
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Post by captainamerica on Sept 20, 2014 23:24:22 GMT -5
I see the the setup is basically the same as mine, what appears to be 20mm tubing actually running out to your swing arm mounts worries me, why not go with something a little bigger, maybe 30mm. If you don't, since its already machined, I would weld triangular steel plates connecting the those 20mm tubes to the 30mm engine mounts to help support against side loads. I took some quick pictures of my current and final setup for you, got almost 1k miles on this, although I did get caught in a nasty rain storm last week on my way home from work and so voila rust! dripping off the bolts and other unpainted pieces.    I think I used a larger OD on the swing arm mounts, although yours look better thought out. Also just as a caution as its something that is not easily seen without looking at CAD, the two links that attach the swing arm to the shock bell crank had to be remade 1/2" to handle the lower ride height and smaller OD car tire on my design. I have yet to have mine remade from aluminum. What year is your engine? you have a different oil pan and an O2 sensor that I do not have. |
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 21, 2014 3:55:47 GMT -5
Today I made the top engine swing arm mounts same as the lower ones, 30mm outer diameter solid 1020, 22mm high tensile thread to the engine casing and next weekend the 40mm outer diameter & 30m inner diameter parts to connect the swing arm. Photos next weekend. |
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 22, 2014 3:02:46 GMT -5
Captain the month and year of the bike is 03/2007 on your advice as it has the hydraulic clutch.
Some photos of work completed this weekend, Captain the 20mm rods to the swing are solid 1020 steel, I agree with you that there needs to be some support added which will happen soon. Thankyou for the shocker bell crank info. I am looking forward to moving to the front end of this machine and have a feeling you may be a great help.
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 22, 2014 3:05:39 GMT -5
oh and the Aussie gear lever which is the foot peg off the donor bike, just need to shorten it & pretty it up.
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Post by captainamerica on Sept 22, 2014 14:04:15 GMT -5
I didn't realize it was solid, your probably fine, but I would still put some flanges out to the sides if that's possible. I'm glad you went with the 07-08 motor, the hydraulic clutch makes life really easy when putting together the pedal setup. One quick thought, I am assuming those two bolts are to secure your side to side motion, if you are placing and removing those a lot you can very easily tear up the machined bore and then the parts will be a pain to slide over each other. Sweet gear lever, I will be interested to know how you feel about the shifter on the left, (which may be normal for you), and whether that is stiff enough. Even in a straight shot to you engine, I would use 18mm hex aluminum or similar steel tubing. If your moment of inertia isn't high enough (ie not stiff enough) you will find that the linkage will bend and make shifting feel sloppy or worse not shift at all. I initially used all 1/2" tubing and all my linkage flexed to the point that it would not even shift with the full throw of the shifter.
Side note, after I got the trike all up and running and drove it with the rear end setup and got it where I wanted it, I just welded the thing together since I couldn't think of a good reason to ever need to remove the swing arm mounts.
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 22, 2014 15:50:09 GMT -5
Hello Captain I don't know why I am doing it this way, in my head I am trying to have the whole thing easy to disassemble so if I go ahead with the second frame all the rear can be transferred across. Being I am flying blind having never built before and not able or have access to CAD I have some new ideas for the 2nd frame, it is amazing how you see some things after building that should be slightly longer, stronger, bigger, smaller ect. I also think I have made the drivers compartment a little on the small side and may need to extend it slightly but it also maybe perfect being I am on the very short side of 6 ft but will wait until the steering wheel is mounted on the column. The gear change set up seems to work perfectly sitting on the welding table atleast may be different if it ever hits the road I will keep your comments in mind thankyou. Oh gears in Aus are on left, not sure if I could drive if they were on the wrong side ha ha. |
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 27, 2014 3:36:42 GMT -5
 New direction for Neds Trike, maybe?
I think I have decided to start over, I have seen some other Trikes on the net with curved frame pipe work. So today I built a radius cutter tool post for my lathe which will enable me to make 22mm radius dies or smaller or larger which will hopefully enable me to make dies to create the curves required for the new frame if I go ahead with it. Below are some photos of it, hopefully when finished it will work!
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 27, 2014 23:23:03 GMT -5
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 29, 2014 5:00:51 GMT -5
Next is to build the pipe roller to curve the pipe work, which will be just after I cut 3 dies with the radius cutter, the dies will be 100mm diameter with 22mm radius cut in them to roll 44mm outer diameter with 3.2mm walled pipe. The shafts to support the dies will be 34mm diameter hardened steel. I am going to try and make this machine with gears so it will not be to difficult to turn when under load. There will be no bearings being the load maybe to great and may cause the bearings to fail so it will be metal on metal with plenty of oil. Anyway time to suck it and see? Photos to come PS being I don't really know what I am doing any suggestions would be appreciated? |
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Post by skifffz1to3 on Sept 29, 2014 5:57:56 GMT -5
You guys crack me up! "don't know what you are doing" Ha! Both of you have talent and skills I drool over. Right now, I have a plans/kit, cut list, material sizes...but can't weld one bead.
I love following your builds. Keep them coming.
Cheers |
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Post by stretchmobileski on Sept 29, 2014 23:05:09 GMT -5
What did you use for a pivot bearing? What kind of handle are you going to use to turn it while cutting? I've been contemplating making one if these. Any pictures of it apart or underneath would be appreciated. |
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 30, 2014 2:12:25 GMT -5
What did you use for a pivot bearing? What kind of handle are you going to use to turn it while cutting? I've been contemplating making one if these. Any pictures of it apart or underneath would be appreciated. No metal bearings at all, it's what I call an oil bearing not to sure if that is the correct term, but when putting together if you use to much oil it hydraulically locks and is impossible to put together, the funny thing is I am going to make another one this weekend due to I have made this one 20mm to high for the purpose, or for the reason I made it. I will pull it apart tonight and take some photos for you. The handle is 12mm polished hardened steel approximately 250mm long.
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 30, 2014 2:37:49 GMT -5
The underside which locates and bolts to the cross slide on the lathe.
This next photo is the Radius cutter pulled apart from left to right in blue is the carbide tip holder, 20mm diameter locating boss, top of Radius cutter turned upside down, bottom of Radius cutter. 
This is a close up of the inside of the lower half of the Radius cutter, if you can see in the photo I have machined out an oil bearing groove at least that's what I call it. It is the first thing I have made on a lathe it took me 2 days. 
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Post by nedkelly on Sept 30, 2014 15:29:15 GMT -5
You guys crack me up! "don't know what you are doing" Ha! Both of you have talent and skills I drool over. Right now, I have a plans/kit, cut list, material sizes...but can't weld one bead.
I love following your builds. Keep them coming.
Cheers Practice makes perfect, or at least good enough in my case. Good luck with your build, post some photos of it.
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Post by stretchmobileski on Sept 30, 2014 23:53:51 GMT -5
Thank you very much for taking the time to show us the workings. I now am the shop foreman at a machine shop and have 5 CNC's at my disposal. I still putter around with my manual lathe at home.
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Post by nedkelly on Oct 13, 2014 1:28:26 GMT -5
Well it has taken a while but I am nearly finished the pipe roller
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Post by nedkelly on Jan 20, 2015 0:57:57 GMT -5
Hey All I had to give up building my own trike due to $$ and regulations here in Aus. So I did the next best thing and bought this one. My daughter has photo shopped it for ideas of colours I may want to paint it, but it is actually in grey undercoat with black fibreglass covers. It is not finished to my standard and there is Still a lot of work to be done for me to be 100% happy with it but that's what I enjoy. It is a Yamaha FJR 1300cc 2 seater. It is fun to drive and quick, handles like a race car corners fantastic and hands off in a straight line.
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Post by Liteway on Jan 20, 2015 9:19:42 GMT -5
Is this a Mako Trike? I thought the design of Alanstrike was a One-off. Obviously not.
Nice trike Ned. Keep us posted on adventures and upgrades.
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Post by Liteway on Jan 20, 2015 9:53:32 GMT -5
Oh! That is Alanstrike. Right?
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