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Post by nitrotate on Dec 8, 2009 12:05:23 GMT -5
What’s up guys? I’m building a reverse trike. I managed to get my hands on a Yamaha FJR 1300 for the powerplant!!! This thing’s going to move pretty good! Here’s the pictures, I’ll keep adding to them as I progress, I’m moving pretty fast really. I built the frame and connected the motorcycle in about 5 days. I’ll be working on the front suspension in the next couple weeks. Here’s the bike I got, it was only wrecked in the front end, everything else is fine and it starts and runs perfect! Here's the bike: Here’s the frame: Here is the bike connected to the frame, I'm still working on the support braces back to the bike:
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Post by srx660 on Dec 9, 2009 8:12:42 GMT -5
Looks like a good start on your project. Have you decided on what front end to use? I found a good miata front end at my local japanese auto u-pull place in St Pete Fla for $180. I think it would work great for you. Be sure to get the master cyl and pedal assy out of the car with the front end if you do. It makes things a bit easier.
SRX660
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Post by nitrotate on Dec 9, 2009 9:56:49 GMT -5
Thanks!, well I'm actually using the front end out of an old toyota pickup that I got from my father-in-law for free. I have the steering, control arms, brake master cylinder etc. etc. All free!!
I'm actually thinking of buying a hydraulic pedal assembly from one of those sand rail/buggy companies. They have the entire pedal assembly, clutch and brake master cylinders, and gas pedal for around $150. I think that would be well worth the money because it solves a lot of problems and work. Plus the bike I'm using has a hydraulic clutch.
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Post by nitrotate on Dec 14, 2009 13:51:21 GMT -5
Ok latest update, I got all the support bars built, mounted and fully welded on. I made sure that the bike would detach before I welded them in place permanently. Got the bike all perfectly square and true. In these pictures the bike’s rear suspension is holding it in place and I can get inside and jump up and down to move the suspension. The only issue I have is the ground clearance is a bit less than expected so I’m going to have to raise the rear suspension up an inch or two. Woohoo! Making progress! Now on to the front suspension…
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Post by jim99 on Dec 19, 2009 19:49:07 GMT -5
Hi,
Nice build, same basic direction I'm planning for my second build. The first trike I built I planned for 5" of ground clearance, but after it was done I ended up with about 3 1/2" of clearance.
My plan was to fix that at a later date. I now have about 3,000 miles on trike and ground clearance has not been a problem and I have not bothered to change it. Hope this helps you a little.
Yours, Jim
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Post by nitrotate on Dec 27, 2009 14:43:33 GMT -5
Yeah that is nice to know. I have approximately 5.5" of clearance right now but I'm making it so that I could adjust if necessary which will be nice.
Thanks
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Post by nitrotate on Dec 27, 2009 14:43:51 GMT -5
Here's the latest update on the trike; I got all the supports totally done and adjusted the rear suspension to the right height by cutting and shortening the dogbones and welding them back together. I got my wheels in and tires on!!! So now I've been able to start creating the suspension mounts. Here is where I'm at right now, I just tack welded the upper control arm in it's final position so that I could fab up the mounting point. I have about 5 degrees of positive caster with the wheel straight and 6 degrees of anti-dive. And here is the whole thing so far:
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 6, 2010 10:22:00 GMT -5
Where's all the trike builders?? Not much activity on this forum... Hopefully more people start posting this year! Happy new year! Anyway here is my latest progress. She's standing up all by herself now!
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 18, 2010 11:16:54 GMT -5
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Post by Giovanni LiCalsi on Jan 18, 2010 14:35:00 GMT -5
Here is a colapsable steering column and an adjustable upper steering column mount.It has a quick-disconnect steering wheel hub and is colapsable for collisions.Here is a really good rack-n-pinion if you decide to upgrade later. *Woodward Steering Racks *Speedway Motors Steering Columns
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 18, 2010 15:13:46 GMT -5
Nice! I'll keep that info, thanks a lot!
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 20, 2010 10:03:03 GMT -5
Did a little more mockup and measuring last night to find the right location for the steering wheel, now I just need to wait for the new steering wheel and pedal assembly to get here so I finalize and mount them. My goofball dogs wouldn't stay out of the trike, I guess they think they get to go for rides already!
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 21, 2010 11:14:51 GMT -5
Ok so I took the tank, subframe and the pipes and just kind of sat them in place about how I envision them so you guys could kind of get an idea. Oh and the pedals and throttle cable showed up yesterday so now I’ve got some time consuming and detailed work to do soon and my “visible” progress will slow down now but I’m still working just as fast. I have to get the pedal assembly positioned and then plumb the hydraulic clutch and brakes and then run the throttle cable.
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Post by Giovanni LiCalsi on Jan 21, 2010 13:00:45 GMT -5
Nice job but you may need more height on you rollbar.
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 25, 2010 9:52:15 GMT -5
Yeah it came out a little shorter than I had hoped for but I am still thinking of sort of a cage idea anyway so that will bring it up a little higher.
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Post by nitrotate on Jan 25, 2010 12:08:08 GMT -5
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Post by nitrotate on Feb 2, 2010 11:16:01 GMT -5
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Post by Giovanni LiCalsi on Feb 2, 2010 13:05:17 GMT -5
It is easy to build your own design of a steering wheel paddle-shifter.Just reverse-engineer this.The paddles are nothing more than a large toggle switch with 2 on-on positions.This can operate a wired 2-servo motor trans shifter.You can use door lock servos from a salvage yard or use a new servo. www.tciauto.com/Products/Shifters/paddle/firgelli.com/products.php
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Post by nitrotate on Feb 3, 2010 12:56:39 GMT -5
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Post by nitrotate on Feb 3, 2010 13:14:01 GMT -5
It is easy to build your own design of a steering wheel paddle-shifter.Just reverse-engineer this.The paddles are nothing more than a large toggle switch with 2 on-on positions.This can operate a wired 2-servo motor trans shifter.You can use door lock servos from a salvage yard or use a new servo. www.tciauto.com/Products/Shifters/paddle/firgelli.com/products.phpNice thanks for the links man! I was considering an electric air shifter, I found them for around $300. and they come with everything I would need and also have the ignition interrupt module too so I don't even need to use the clutch.
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