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Post by vtx1800trike on Jun 12, 2018 11:56:54 GMT -5
Hello forum members, I decided to post pictures of the reverse trike I've been building for about a year and half. It's a 2004 VTX1800 mated to a modified dune buggy frame. All of the motorcycle controls have been moved to a normal car position, including the hydraulic clutch, brakes, throttle, the shifter, etc. I fabricated the brackets to firmly secure the motorcycle to the frame in 9 locations, including the neck, 2 engine mounts, and the front lower part of the frame (where the pegs used to be) The things that are next are: Floor, body and other convenience/comfort items. Let me know your feedback and if you have any questions. Thanks for letting me share.     |
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joe
Full Member
Uploaded Pictures
Posts: 118 
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Post by joe on Jun 14, 2018 8:56:48 GMT -5
Looks like a fun project, how does it handle, and how do you have it titled?
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Post by vtx1800trike on Jun 17, 2018 18:50:46 GMT -5
It handles really well so far, except when doing burnouts. I reused some shocks I had lying around but they are too long and were causing the front inside wheel to lift up when turning under power.
I am going to lower it a little more with the adjustable torsion bars (VW front end) then make new shock towers that clear the 18” wheels, then measure and install new shocks.
I’m replacing the rear tire with a car tire and lowering the rear to match the front height.
The wheelbase is pretty long so it’s pretty smooth, but uturns are difficult, especially without reverse (which is on the checklist).
It’s registered as a 2004 VTX1800 because in California, it’s considered a trike as long as there are no more than 3 wheels touching the ground. My CHP buddy said it seems kosher.
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Ray
Junior Member
Posts: 75
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Post by Ray on Jun 27, 2018 17:14:55 GMT -5
It handles really well so far, except when doing burnouts. I reused some shocks I had lying around but they are too long and were causing the front inside wheel to lift up when turning under power. I am going to lower it a little more with the adjustable torsion bars (VW front end) then make new shock towers that clear the 18” wheels, then measure and install new shocks. I’m replacing the rear tire with a car tire and lowering the rear to match the front height. The wheelbase is pretty long so it’s pretty smooth, but uturns are difficult, especially without reverse (which is on the checklist). It’s registered as a 2004 VTX1800 because in California, it’s considered a trike as long as there are no more than 3 wheels touching the ground. My CHP buddy said it seems kosher. I've been looking into this. The CHP here in Lake Co., Ca. wants mine to have its own vin. I've been tempted to just register mine as an 85 Honda GL1200. I have done essentially what you did. I have not touched or modified the GL1200 frame. It is possible to disengage the motorcycle frame from my home built frame and body and put the original front end back on (if I still had it). I would like to upgrade to power train someday. |
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Jun 27, 2018 18:02:47 GMT -5
Martin, both you and Ray are using VW front beams. So think about cutting the top beam and putting coil over shocks inboard on levers. Then cut the bottom beams center adjuster totally out and replace it with tubing. Then the bottom torsion beam becommes a anti-sway bar.
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Jun 27, 2018 21:58:43 GMT -5
The VW beam is such an easy front suspension. Not a Race Car spec one but for 98% of the trike riders out there they are more than enough. When Mods are done they can be made to corner well.
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Jun 27, 2018 23:52:17 GMT -5
I do not know if the bottom bars are removed. But I would pull them out then cut the center "Adjuster" out and replace it with just hollow tube. Then put the bar back in and now it becomes a sway bar acting on the lower swing arms. With no center locking (adjuster) when the right lower swing arm moves up in sway it will also try to lift the left swing arm, just like a sway bar does. Ray, we should move this over to your build and clean up Martins.  |
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Post by Liteway on Jun 28, 2018 7:47:15 GMT -5
Stay away from the "buggy"type rack and pinion in this design.(not VTX,I mean the single seater) Even the sellers state they are for "off road only". That is because they have a ton of slop and having tried to use one myself on road, I wouldn't even attempt to use one for an off road vehicle now. This rack looks Identical to EMPI unit I tried and discarded.
With the VW trailing links running at angles to, and being shorter than the steering links, how can you tune out bump steer?
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Jun 28, 2018 11:39:23 GMT -5
Lite, I think the steep angle is a direct copy of the factory angles. It may have something to do with how a VW beam ARM's swings up and down that is different by 90 degrees of a typical A arm type suspension. I think that if you try to put the rack back farther that you would induce Bump Steer.
I agree with using the "Off Road" Rack and Pinion. On a racecar you are "Sawing" the steering wheel back and forth trying to keep the car on the ragged edge and the slop tends to help buffer that movement. A simple non-powered Rack is from a 1970-80's VW Rabbet/Golf for rear steer or a Ford Pinto for front steer. RockAuto has them in stock most times.
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