A-Arm suspension tipping?

[njnelson98]

So I have made this RT from scratch except for the A-arms, they were bought online.
Attachment Deleted
My question is, as I go around a right corner my RT leans to the left. As it does that the wheels lean left as well(Pulling to the left), even though I'm turning right.(as seen below)
Attachment Deleted
As it leans the allignment seems good but because of the tipping and the pull of the wheels to the left it really feels like I'm not fully in control. I wonder if I need to get some stiffer shocks or if there is something else to do.
It does the same thing as I go around and pass someone. It just doesn't feel safe.
Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks!!
-njnelson98

[DaveJ98092]

I am thinking a small diameter Sway Bar, some call it anti roll bar, fastened to the chassis as far out towards the A-arms and connected out as far to the A-arm as you can. When the right wheel gets pushed up the weight transfers from left to right and the left wheel will go down. A sway bar will pull the left wheel back up.

You can heat and bend a sway bar to fit with out loosing much of its spring. I am sure there are many small Chinese cars with like 12mm to 14MM diameter front sway bars that could be modified to fit. It should be mounted forward or to the rear with the bent arms going to the A-arms so it will pivot in the center.

[srx660]

This site will tell you whats happening to your trike.

speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/

SRX660

[Liteway]

Off road vehicles do not usually employ anti roll bars, at least as conventionally configured, as they can limit wheel travel. If you want to retain maximum travel, it would be better to mount a thicker bar more inboard on the arms where less vertical motion is required, as opposed to a thinner bar more outboard for the same amount of roll control.

[njnelson98]

Jan 28, 2016 0:25:12 GMT -5 DaveJ98092 said:

I am thinking a small diameter Sway Bar, some call it anti roll bar, fastened to the chassis as far out towards the A-arms and connected out as far to the A-arm as you can. When the right wheel gets pushed up the weight transfers from left to right and the left wheel will go down. A sway bar will pull the left wheel back up.

You can heat and bend a sway bar to fit with out loosing much of its spring. I am sure there are many small Chinese cars with like 12mm to 14MM diameter front sway bars that could be modified to fit. It should be mounted forward or to the rear with the bent arms going to the A-arms so it will pivot in the center.

Alright thanks for the picture and reply! Ill look in to that. Sounds like a good answer!

[noahkatz]

Don't want to be a PITA, but

Jan 28, 2016 0:25:12 GMT -5 DaveJ98092 said:

You can heat and bend a sway bar to fit with out loosing much of its spring.

The bar will have to be heated red to bend, and it will certainly lose a great amount of its strength unless re-heat treated, and fatigue failure at that point is likely.

and

Jan 28, 2016 10:44:51 GMT -5 Liteway said:

If you want to retain maximum travel, it would be better to mount a thicker bar more inboard on the arms where less vertical motion is required, as opposed to a thinner bar more outboard for the same amount of roll control.

Those two effects cancel; you can't alter the proportion of roll stiffness to suspension travel reduction.

[Liteway]

I'll try again.

As Dave says, if the bar ends are more outboard, more twisting force is applied to the bar making it more effective at transferring force to the other end.

A thicker bar has that same affect.

If we can agree both these assertions are correct, why can't one compensate for the other?

The bar end cannot attach directly to the swing arm as the end of the bar tries to simultaneously move through 2 arcs, one defined by the inboard pivot of the the swing arm, the other by the attachment points of the bar. A compensating link is installed between the bar and the swing arm to resolve the binding but it has limitations.

A problem arises in the case of long travel suspensions as the link becomes more horizontal with suspension compression. It then applies force at an angle to the arc of the bar ends causing a bind rather than applying the desired twisting force making the bar less effective at the ends of suspension compression travel.

Sorry, its easy for me to mentally picture this, but hard to verbally describe. I hope this doesn't sound like babel to others.

The problem can be countered with longer links, longer arms on the bar, or more inboard mounting of the link.

[noahkatz]

If you were just talking about the geometry issues of directly connected swaybar ends and addressing them with end links, fine.

But if you mean increasing the proportion of roll stiffness to suspension travel reduction, my point stands - there's no free lunch.

It's the same as saying you can make a lever that reduces the necessary force but doesn't require more distance.

[njnelson98]

Feb 4, 2016 7:21:08 GMT -5 Liteway said:

I'll try again.

As Dave says, if the bar ends are more outboard, more twisting force is applied to the bar making it more effective at transferring force to the other end.

A thicker bar has that same affect.

If we can agree both these assertions are correct, why can't one compensate for the other?

The bar end cannot attach directly to the swing arm as the end of the bar tries to simultaneously move through 2 arcs, one defined by the inboard pivot of the the swing arm, the other by the attachment points of the bar. A compensating link is installed between the bar and the swing arm to resolve the binding but it has limitations.

A problem arises in the case of long travel suspensions as the link becomes more horizontal with suspension compression. It then applies force at an angle to the arc of the bar ends causing a bind rather than applying the desired twisting force making the bar less effective at the ends of suspension compression travel.

Sorry, its easy for me to mentally picture this, but hard to verbally describe. I hope this doesn't sound like babel to others.

The problem can be countered with longer links, longer arms on the bar, or more inboard mounting of the link.

I understand exactly its just inboard there is not as much room on our lower A Arm and so it might be harder to do inboard compare to "outboard".
Thanks for the more detailed post!