|
|
Post by Liteway on Aug 15, 2013 8:22:44 GMT -5
Whats wrong with donor bike's radiator? To use the smallest radiator where it can get the best airflow, it should go in the nose. No additional frontal area need be added. Bike radiators tend to be oversize for the engine because they are mounted behind the front wheel, fender and forks where air flow is turbulent at best. On my trike the opening ahead of the rad. is 5" by 7.5", About 1/3 the area of the rad. itself, and the fan rarely comes on, even on 100+ days. I have an over ride switch on the cooling fan that temporarily bypasses the themostaticly controlled one so that the fan can be used as a heater blower through special duct work in the winter.
There are negatives though. Even with insulation, I get some heat coming off the footwell bulkhead in summer. Plumbing has to be run through the cokpit and carefully shielded. It will probably add unwanted inches to the overall length of the trike.
I believe G.P. racers use side mounts to increase weight at the back and their cowlings can be shaped to help with downforce, at a huge penalty in drag.
I think street trike builders use them because they think looking like a G.P. racer is cool and I won't argue with that.
The gp racers of the 60s' Lotus, Eagle, BRM, before side mounts, were sure a lot prettier though.
|
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Aug 15, 2013 10:09:43 GMT -5
First off the original radiator was cracked and bent from an accident so I just called it scrap and moved on, its was also not flat so it wouldn't where I wanted it. The rhino radiator is very similar in size and is flat and has a large fan assembly designed for it. I want the larger fan because the radiator is located directly behind the driver, there are openings for "side pod" air flow but most of the radiator is not in the flow path.
I looked at the nose cone idea but the because of the lines of the body the area inside the nose cone is not very large and the master cylinders push it even further forward. In the future I may move to put the master cylinders under the floor pan and get them out of the way but the steering rack is still there.
For simplicity and to reuse the stock OEM coolant hoses I want a cross flow radiator similar in size to the original located just behind the driver.
|
|
|
|
Post by mtntech on Aug 15, 2013 10:37:15 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by Liteway on Aug 15, 2013 11:47:24 GMT -5
Pretty good price too. The replacement cost for mine thru Bike Bandit is 600 bucks. hope I never get a rock thru it.
|
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Aug 23, 2013 0:45:26 GMT -5
August 2013 Finally got my new garage/shop under control with the lathe and mill moving in last weekend, the new 8' garage door made the move in process very easy, hopefully it will continue to be useful. Got under the house and wired the garage into the house main panel, not something I want to do again ever even if it was nice and cool down there on a 105 degree day. Last week I took a quick trip over to the local yamaha dealership to take some measurements on radiators on side by sides, the rhino looks like the ticket but if I can't get the cooling done with that the new 2014 kawasaki uses a 14x18 crossflow radiator but its a little more expensive but its larger then the 11x18 on the rhino. The yamaha folks were super nice and even hooked me up with a aftermarket parts book that they had laying around. Was going to work on the seat tonight but got side tracked setting up the air system and then somehow moved to doing a fit check of the gas tank. Not sure what the downsides of welding mild steel into 304 SS is but it seemed to work just fine with the MIG setup I have. Good news is...I can reuse the bike fuel line based on how the tank is sitting, so no need to go finding a new fuel line.     |
|
|
|
Post by mtntech on Aug 23, 2013 10:37:53 GMT -5
You're getting closer!
|
|
|
|
Post by noahkatz on Aug 25, 2013 21:33:54 GMT -5
I actually thought the reverse, based on the feeling of air flow standing in front of a room fan versus standing behind it. Nope, you're right. You can feel a shop vac blowing from across the room, whereas you'll be lucky to feel it sucking from a foot away. |
|
|
|
Post by stretchmobileski on Aug 26, 2013 0:05:39 GMT -5
I actually thought the reverse, based on the feeling of air flow standing in front of a room fan versus standing behind it. Nope, you're right. You can feel a shop vac blowing from across the room, whereas you'll be lucky to feel it sucking from a foot away. The key is the shroud. A shroud will force all of the air to go through the radiator. A shroud on the front of a radiator and a pusher fan will make the air flow through efficiently but at the cost of free air from driving at speed. A shroud behind the radiator doesn't block free air and keeps the fan efficient. |
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Sept 12, 2013 0:46:34 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mtntech on Sept 13, 2013 10:05:05 GMT -5
Which model of QA1s are those?
|
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Sept 15, 2013 18:24:38 GMT -5
The shocks are QA1 proma stars summit part number hal-ds501. The springs are 95lb/in from hyperco. For those that have finished your trikes what spring are you running versus your overall weight?
|
|
|
|
Post by Miro on Oct 7, 2013 11:35:58 GMT -5
Excellent work captainamerica! Congrats on high detailed SW work! Soon I will start to buld this one motopra.com/buggy/ , just the frame will be from steinless steel due to lack of ChroMoly 4130 here. Best luck to all of you!
|
|
|
|
Post by mtntech on Oct 7, 2013 15:27:26 GMT -5
Excellent work captainamerica! Congrats on high detailed SW work! Soon I will start to buld this one motopra.com/buggy/ , just the frame will be from steinless steel due to lack of ChroMoly 4130 here. Best luck to all of you! Where's here? |
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Oct 9, 2013 18:14:51 GMT -5
September-October 2013
I haven't had much to put up the last couple of weeks, most of which I spent working in Virginia and living out of a hotel room. Since returning to the sunshine state I have made a lot of purchases getting a lot of the little pieces. I am in the middle of redesigning my front suspension geometry to give a smaller turning radius learning quite a bit about how all the parts interact which I plan to update my steering design page with.
I finally made the call to use the 2013 Yamaha rhino radiator ($220 New), that got ordered and arrives on Friday. I bought all the new a-arm threaded ends for 1" a-arms from Pegasus auto racing, and all the 1" DOM steel. Picked up a roll over vent and internal foam for the fuel tank, SFI certified 1" padding for the soon to be designed head rest, ordered the aluminum steering rack/anti-roll bar mounts to be water jetted, new aluminum pedal pads, hydralic brake light sensor.
Design
Asking the crowd here, has anyone ever used a hydraulic e-brake? I am designing my braking system with a bias part and separate front and rear master cylinders, the brake light sensor will be hooked into the front system and I want to add a parallel master cylinder to the rear system that will be hand controlled for an e-brake. This way the brake lights won't be on when the e-brake is pulled.
Manufacturing
Anyone ever come across oval tubing? I know it exists and I want to use it on my a-arms, but I can't find anyone who sells it to the average Joe. Spruce Aircraft sells 4130 aero tubing but its $22/ft which is way to much for me to consider it.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Oct 17, 2013 21:44:20 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by mtntech on Oct 18, 2013 9:42:35 GMT -5
September-October 2013 I haven't had much to put up the last couple of weeks, most of which I spent working in Virginia and living out of a hotel room. Since returning to the sunshine state I have made a lot of purchases getting a lot of the little pieces. I am in the middle of redesigning my front suspension geometry to give a smaller turning radius learning quite a bit about how all the parts interact which I plan to update my steering design page with. I finally made the call to use the 2013 Yamaha rhino radiator ($220 New), that got ordered and arrives on Friday. I bought all the new a-arm threaded ends for 1" a-arms from Pegasus auto racing, and all the 1" DOM steel. Picked up a roll over vent and internal foam for the fuel tank, SFI certified 1" padding for the soon to be designed head rest, ordered the aluminum steering rack/anti-roll bar mounts to be water jetted, new aluminum pedal pads, hydralic brake light sensor. Design Asking the crowd here, has anyone ever used a hydraulic e-brake? I am designing my braking system with a bias part and separate front and rear master cylinders, the brake light sensor will be hooked into the front system and I want to add a parallel master cylinder to the rear system that will be hand controlled for an e-brake. This way the brake lights won't be on when the e-brake is pulled. Manufacturing Anyone ever come across oval tubing? I know it exists and I want to use it on my a-arms, but I can't find anyone who sells it to the average Joe. Spruce Aircraft sells 4130 aero tubing but its $22/ft which is way to much for me to consider it. Use a snowmobile master cylinder from and Arctic Cat,Polaris, or Skidoo. Hand lever actuated with a smaller lever to provide the park brake feature. |
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Oct 20, 2013 23:47:16 GMT -5
Oct 20, 13 Thanks for the feed back, I am going to talk to wilwood about reverse pressure on their master cylinders, will update once I do. I looked at WAG aero, they sell the same 4130 aero tubing Spruce does, I am looking for 1020 slot profile tubing, it seems to magically appear on lower division (formula mazda, ford, atlantic) racecar a-arms and no one can tell me where it comes from. For now I am going to push forward with 1020 DOM round tubing. Spent some time tonight drawing up the coolant piping and modifying my shift linkage so it doesn't stick out into the air stream, and also so it will actually work, which I tend to push as a good thing in the long run. The cross car linkage is just there so I can move it easily until I find the correct height for it.   |
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Oct 28, 2013 1:33:43 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by stretchmobileski on Oct 28, 2013 12:46:30 GMT -5
October '13 Spent the weekend in the garage. Mounted the radiator with a test setup and tried out the coolant line setup. Having trouble sourcing a 7/8" to 1" 45 degree silicon pipe reducer for the pump side. Also finished mounting the gas tank with top mounts, next will be sorting out the fuel vent system. Tested out mounting the mirrors, they work in this position but I think I am going to be moving them about 4-5" lower so they don't look so much like bunny ears and also so they don't block the drivers view, priorities... Everything is starting to rust...obviously I need to work faster... I think the mirrors would look better down a little also. Yeah mine is getting surface rust also. |
|
|
|
Post by captainamerica on Nov 15, 2013 1:17:05 GMT -5
|
|
