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Post by DaveJ98092 on Sept 16, 2017 16:04:32 GMT -5
Joe, Thank you for the update. I am VERY interested in the FSC600 Silverwings fit and everything. I have not laid hands on one yet.
I have two Burgman 650 (638cc) engine modules (engine, eCVT and swingarm) but they are a bit longer that a 600 Silverwings module. So, if you can find the time and if you wish to share the dimensions of the engine and in the frame pictures, I would love to see them.
CVT's are the future for most big cruiser bikes. It does not need to be "Rubber Band" belt CVT's. I have been riding Burgman 650's for over 11 years now and DO NOT EVER want to go back to Clutches and shifting. A computer controlled CVT that the Burgman 650 and a few other bikes like the Aprilla Mana GT800, puts me in the right gear RIGHT NOW. Doing 75 MPH and hammer the throttle and I don't need to drop 2 gears, within milla seconds the computer has done it and I am doing 90 MPH so quick. I can keep up with my friend on his BMW F800Gt till about 95 MPH and then he starts to pull away. From a dead stop he pulls about 2 bikes on me up to 100 MPH but then its like I missed a shift and he walks away. I can go 115-120 MPH, he can go 145 MPH.....
I have the added feature of a thump "Paddle Shifter" with 6 (Pre set computer) gears. My power torque band is about 3000 to 7500 RPM and redlines at 8500 when the "rev limiter" stutters the fuel injectors on and off. So IF I can shift it at 7500 RPM in each gear it is very fast. Would make a good trike engine.
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Post by joe on Sept 16, 2017 23:17:54 GMT -5
Dave, here is a quick sketch of the Honda Silverwing FSC600 Engine mounted in the slightly modified Silverwing frame with radiator, rear wheel and aftermarket dual exhaust. This is a compressed photo, so just click on it to enlarge to see the actual dimensions. Let me know if you need more details. I was not familiar with the Aprilia Mana GT 850 which has a electronic shiftable automatic transmission similar to the Burgman 650. After researching the specs I was surprised that for another 250 cc's over the Silverwing it was only 4 horsepower more. I picked the Silverwing for the CVT and it appeared to have a great reliability track record I've seen some listed with close to 100,000 miles similar to other Honda products. I'm sure the Bergman has excellent reliability but not familiar with the Aprilia's.
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Post by joe on Sept 26, 2017 21:45:24 GMT -5
New ECM installed, started right up, went for a test ride with the 600cc Honda motor it drove fairly well. The suspension and steering had been modified however the coil over Springs appear too weak. I went on several websites looking into the selection and design for the appropriate coilover based on the unsprung mass, vehicle weight and other factors. One site based on the vehicle data entered, recommended spring tension of about 540 pounds which is roughly double when I'm currently set up for. I experimented with just adding two shocks to one side of the vehicle and it appears I can achieve the appropriate results. Rather than just order heavier shocks without changing and rewelding the mounting and the length or actual mounts themselves I designed a bracket that fits in the original shock that'll accommodate two identical shocks on each side. I ordered a second pair of the original shocks that should arive in a couple weeks. I'm curious of any other websites or formulars any of you have used to calculate the proper coilover shocks with minimum or no trial and error, let me know thanks!
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Post by joe on Nov 28, 2017 11:54:14 GMT -5
FINISHED? At least that's what I tell my wife, I'm always looking to add something else. Just ordered a laser ground projector. Have under body LEDs that flash & change color to the stereo. Remote control body tail lift. Putting together a from start to finish build video for youtube, will post link here when finished. Also check out on Facebook "reverse trikes Florida " please join regardless if you don't live in Fl. It's just another place to post & share your photos without any size limitations. If you ever visit the south west Fl. area email me at joesarasota@yahoo.com and I can let you know what car-motorcycle shows coming up. There is normally one every weekend! This is a double car meet that starts out in one location with free coffee & donuts the 2hrs later a BMW dealer hosts it with a free hot breakfast.
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Post by joe on Feb 4, 2018 17:38:59 GMT -5
Went to Car show with all classifications, came home with a trophy, the only built from scratch vs about 50+ rehabs. It helps pay for that old sweat and perseverance. The vehicle next to me was a classic view of old vs new. The next car show I was fortunate to have a Slingshot park next to me. The Slingshot being production quality made all the body flaws of my T-Rex more obvious but fortunately didn't deter spectator complements. The last picture was to showcase the rear body tail lift. Using a Lexus window lift assembly and a RF remote I configured you can raise the bodytail as shown in the picture. When I was testing the transmitter range several isles back from the trike, I suprised an on looker that reacted with a big smile, that's what its all about!
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Post by 1983JZR3W on Feb 5, 2018 17:10:07 GMT -5
joe. I am not a member of Facebook, but would like some info on the car shows in your area. I live in Jacksonville with a JZR. My daughter lives in Valrico near Tampa and I go down often to see her. Maybe I could arrange a visit to coincide with a show in Sarasota. Let me know, George Oller.
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Post by joe on Feb 15, 2018 14:15:21 GMT -5
Sarasota Fl. Weekly Car Shows:
1st Sat: 3-7pm **** Cars on Dearborn St Englewood, Fl, (off RT 776)
Hundreds of cars and thousands of car lovers converge on Dearborn Street, downtown Englewood, Fl. Music, Restaurants, arrive by 2pm to enter, Free
2nd Sat: 8-10am *Sarasota Cars & Coffee - Suncoast Porsche, 5005 S. US-41, Sarasota, FL 34231 Small venue; all makes and models, Fee admission, Coffee and fresh pastries available
9am-1pm **** Ideal Classic Car Museum - 2224 US-41 S., Venice, Fl. 34293
100+ cars inside museum, 50+ outside, trophies, door prizes, CollectorCarsTV.com,
$10 Car Entry Fee, Free admission to show and museum.
3rd Sat: 10am-2pm *** Sarasota Classic Car Museum 5500 N. US-41, Sarasota
100+ cars inside museum, aprox. 50+ outside, trophies, door prizes, CollectorCarsTV.com
$10 Car Entry Fee, Free admission to show, discounted museum admission.
3rd Sun: 11am-2pm ** Culver's Car Show US 41 (just south of Stickney Point Rd)
7250 S. Tamiami Trail (US 41) Sarasota. . small venue, Culver's give-aways. Trivia, oldies music by Cadillac Jimmy. For info contact (941) 822-1631. Free
4th Sat: 8-11am * SRQ Caffeine & Gasoline BMW of Sarasota, 5151 Clark Rd
Small venue; all makes and models, Fee admission & Free Starbucks coffee and fresh pastries.
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Post by joe on Feb 15, 2018 14:22:05 GMT -5
Anyone visiting the the Southwest Florida Area and would like to visit or be in a show, shoot me a email at least one week in advance. I will try to confirm if any changes with shows and if If I will be entering one of my reverse trikes: joesarasota@yahoo.com
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Post by joe on Feb 15, 2018 14:32:33 GMT -5
There have been new legislation proposed for Reverse Trikes based on there increasing popularity. The Term "AutoCycle" is the new classification, the Federal Gov. and most states have different regulations proposed to go into effect this year. See the attached link from the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) www.ncsl.org/research/transportation/transportation-review-autocycles.aspx
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Post by joe on Mar 14, 2018 9:34:29 GMT -5
Made modifications to the electric reverse,replaced the 2" OD rubber roller with a larger 4.25" dia. Also make an adjustable return spring for the gear linkage. The new yellow roller is actually two 3" wide rollers mounted side by side on piece of 1" steel tubing that I welded and ground a .125" × .375" keyway. I cut the matching slot in their rollers to lock them on to the tubing. The original roller was attached to the winch motor via. a gear welded to a .75" threaded rod. In order to adapt the new assembly I welded a 3/4" hex nut to one end of the tubing and a 3/4" bushing to the other, this enables me to lock everything together and still allow for disassembly. The adjustable return spring allows for fine tuning of the roller assembly weight vs the force required to lock the roller in place when shifting into reverse. Got it all back together, needless to say it works better than the first version. With no access to a lathe of milling machine, the mig welder, grinders, files and hand drill are my compromise.
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Post by joe on Apr 5, 2018 10:30:01 GMT -5
Since rear visibility is limited to the side view mirrors, added a rear view camera with infrared night vision. The camera is integrated into the rear brake light assembly. I fabricated a new glove box door hinge that picks up the mounting points of the 7" display. The display sits over the bottom half of the door and pivots open with it. I hope I see as much of the surrounding traffic as possible, especially since they don't always see the trike at only 44" tall.
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Post by joe on May 11, 2018 17:15:05 GMT -5
In order to epitomize all the hard work that goes into building your reverse trike project, it all boils down to I.P.D.G. Inspiration -Perspiration -Dedication -Gratification
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Post by joe on May 19, 2018 15:24:36 GMT -5
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Post by joe on May 19, 2018 15:44:15 GMT -5
Last picture is a CAD drawing showing the two different positions of the fuel tank; 1st in the Silverwing motorcycle and the current in the T-Rex, It was easier to see a visual depiction of the moving positions of the float after making a new longer 18mm float arm assembly. The digital fuel gauge reads a one second sample of the analog sender once about every 3 min. to prevent and fuel movement during driving to cause the fuel gauge to change erratically. I had to discover this the hard way a year ago thinking I had either a bad sender or gauge when I was expecting instantaneous results when manually moving the gas tank float arm. I accidentally discovered the change in the display after I left forgot to shut ignition power off and seen that the gauge responded minutes later.
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Post by DaveJ98092 on May 19, 2018 15:58:59 GMT -5
Yeah when we get used to Instant read out form Digatal 30 times oversampeling, when the signal is read for a milisecond every minuet or longer we get antsy.
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Post by joe on Jun 11, 2018 7:57:28 GMT -5
Looking for some advise, yesterday, drove 50 min at average 60 mph on a 90 degree ambient day, came to a stop and noticed my 5 segment temperature gauge go up one notch from 3= normal to 4. Within about 2 min. it returned to 3 segments again as I began cruising at 50 mph apparently forcing more air flow through the radiator via the 2 side air intake scoops. At first I thought of switching to less friction synthetic motor oil, but a friend of mine suggested switching to a lower boiling point antifreeze like "engine Ice antifreeze". I have put about 700 miles on the vehicle in the last 6 months and never had the temperature climb past normal, since it only happened once and came back to normal temp. quickly, only the 4th segment, not the 5th of the temp. gauge came on twice after at least 30 min of 50 mph+ driving on a hot summer day, so switching out or adding and additional radiator was not a consideration at this point. I appreciate any experience with this type of antifreeze or other temperature lowering solutions.
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Jun 11, 2018 14:12:27 GMT -5
It is a bit more expensive but Earl's Waterless antifreeze is about the best. You would need to do a few flushes to get all the old stuff out.
I assume your bike motor has an oil cooler too. Try directing more air to it if you can.
I run Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic 5W40 ($25 a gallon at Wallmart and there is a $5 rebate on now) in all my bikes as it is safe for wet clutches. In the heat of summer, I sometimes run their T5 15W40 non-synthetic blended 50/50% with the T6. I am at 54,000 miles on my first Burgman 650, 19,000 on my 2nd (crashed), 64,000 on my 3rd (crashed) and 55,000 on my current 4th so this oil does work.
Make sure you have "BURPPED" all the air out of the system. Hard to do on a stock setup but even harder when you modify placement of radiators and filler caps. The filler cap must be the highest point of the system. Even if you must install a remote filler port.
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Post by joe on Jun 12, 2018 0:04:17 GMT -5
I googled "earl's waterless antifreeze" it came up Evans Waterless Antifreeze I'm sure that's what you meant, however I also googled "Evens waterless" vs "Engine Ice antifreeze" and discovered some interesting results. Evans is superior for longevity, corrosion and of course highest boiling point 375 degrees F vs 256, but what I'm trying to accomplish is keep my engine running a few degrees cooler in the hot summer heat. According to the online comparisons and Evans own website; water based coolants have superior heat transfer capabilities than Evans waterless. I think the a combination of water based "Engine Ice" and I like your recommendation for "Shell Rotella T5 15w40" synthetic motor oil for reducing friction/heat, I my opt. for a full synthetic like mobil 1, thanks Dave. Would still be interested if anyone else on the forum had any experience using "Engine Ice" antifreeze, does it work better than others?
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Jun 12, 2018 13:54:46 GMT -5
There are huge debates on engine oils on many forums that some forums BAN such topics. Some will argue that Shell Rotella T6 5W40 is a "Group 3 +" made with true ester based synthetics blended with super "Cracked" mineral oils and not a true Synthetic at all. The percentages of mineral oils blended in are quite small, 90% Syn/10% Mineral from what I have read. This is why Shell can sell it for $5 a quart where a "TRUE" 100% Ester based Syn is $12 a quart. The 15W40 Shell Rotella T5 is not a real syn oil. It is a HIGHLY refined mineral oil and a syn base blend and will give excellent wear reduction. In the past I have used "RedLine" Water Wetter. Basically everyone thinks water is wet but it is not. Put a few drops of pure water on a glass plate and see it will try to "BEAD" up into a ball/sphere. Then add just a small drop of dish soap to it and it will flatten out. The soap made the water wetter so it loses its surface boundaries. I am sure that is all "Engine Ice" does. It must have a topical agent to "WET" the water out better. But I am not an engineer. I am a retired Telephone Repair tech of 45 years but I do have 3 collage AS degrees, 1 in Welding, 1 in Automotive repair and 1 in Electrical design and usage. I was at one time a Certified ASE Tech but I did not work in that trade so I did not renew.
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