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Post by jim99 on Mar 31, 2014 21:47:57 GMT -5
Check your safety belts for the prpoer lacing. You need to "lock" the three bar so that there is no slipping of the belts if you ever need them. Check this page simpsonraceproducts.com/pdf/inst/Web%20Installation.pdfJim P.S. - Everyone else out there. CHECK your belts, it's too late to check them after you need them, coming from someone that has "used them". |
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Post by captainamerica on Apr 1, 2014 21:41:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the heads up Jim, this is a good thing to do. I should be registered or well on my way tomorrow, I talked to DMV today and they were all ready to go but weary of my complete lack of receipt record keeping so I was asked to create an excel sheet with a break down of cost to make my affidavit for custom built vehicle here in North Carolina. So tonight I threw this together, I do not take into account the cost to manufacture anything that I made at home or had cut and then completed in the garage. Add about 1k for CNC plasma and waterjet cutting services and about 3k extra on the bike which I have gotten some of back selling unused parts. I wanted to add the excel table with the cost breakdown per part but the board posting format does not play nice with excel sheet, I have Added it as an attachment Value Break Down CHASSIS Metal by Weight ($/lb) Brackets Battery Seat Belt Belt Mount Bolts Mirrors Switches Head Lights Brake Light Turn Blinkers Pedal Bearings Pedals Throttle Cable Wiring by Reel Wiring Crush Ends Rubber Grommets Wiring Mounts Dzus Body Mount Clips Shaft Clamps Master Switch SUBTOTAL 2100 ENGINE Engine + Trans Clutch Hydraulics Fuel Tank Yamaha Radiator Radiator Silicon Piping Shift Link Rod Ends Shift Link Bushings Engine Mount Bolts Radiator Fan Exhaust Battery Wire per Foot Radiator Hose Clamps SUBTOTAL 2606 SUSPENSION A-arm Metal by Weight ($/lb) A-arm Threaded Inserts High Str. Rod Ends Rod Ends QA1 Shocks Hypercoil Springs Bellcrank Bearings Uprights Metal by Weight Wheel Bearings and Seals High Misalignment Inserts Wheels Studs Spindles by Weight Rear Swing Arm Rear Shock Chain Sprockets Bell Crank Bolts Suspension Bolts Wheels 17" Lug Nuts Tires (used) Rear Wheel Bell Cranks by Weight ($/lb) SUBTOTAL 2542 STEERING Steering Rack Steering Wheel Quick Release Rack End Joints Steering Rod Ends Column U-joint Column Bearins Rack Mounts SUBTOTAL 1671 BRAKES Master Cylinders Rotors Calipers Brake Lines Tubing & Fittings Bias Bar Rotor Hats Rotor Hat Bolts SUBTOTAL 961 TOTAL 9880 Attachments:Trike Cost.xls (30.5 KB)
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Post by stretchmobileski on Apr 1, 2014 22:55:43 GMT -5
Thanks for sharing your costs. I find myself comparing what I have spent verses your totals. Good luck with DMV.
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Post by captainamerica on Apr 2, 2014 16:13:51 GMT -5
Vehicle registration and plate is in hand gentlemen...we have lift off of the space shuttle spartan just outside of Charlotte, North Carolina!!!! ...onwards to insurance  Which turned out to be $163/year, thats ~30 cents a day, I pay over $2 a day on my 2010 Rav4. |
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Post by kolibri on Apr 2, 2014 18:07:20 GMT -5
Wow, congrats Captain , be on the way after 150 Km testdrive to get it streetlegal the next weeks.
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Post by captainamerica on Apr 2, 2014 18:22:58 GMT -5
Wow, 150Km test drive, that sounds like a smart idea but who has the time. I was really impressed with the quickness of the process here, the DMV has the plates and stickers on hand so there was no waiting to get any of that.
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Post by mtntech on Apr 2, 2014 20:30:44 GMT -5
Congrats on getting that done!!
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Post by jim99 on Apr 2, 2014 22:14:54 GMT -5
Woo Hoo!!!! Another trike on the road. Great job!!!!!! High five!!!!
Jim
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Post by stretchmobileski on Apr 3, 2014 0:21:08 GMT -5
Vehicle registration and plate is in hand gentlemen...we have lift off of the space shuttle spartan just outside of Charlotte, North Carolina!!!! . Awesome Captain! Job well done, now drive it! |
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Post by captainamerica on Apr 12, 2014 18:29:17 GMT -5
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Post by DaveJ98092 on Apr 12, 2014 20:18:00 GMT -5
One of the jobs I did at a race shop was to "Nut and Bolt" everything. I would use the torque wrench and check EVERY nut and bolt, then safety wire them, check them off the list. Wish I could instill that in my son. Even if he could remember to check for loose wrenches or sockets before going out for a test ride. That "Clinnnng, Clannnng, pop, binnnnng" sound as you go down the road is not so nice.
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Post by jim99 on Apr 12, 2014 20:47:51 GMT -5
Hi Andy,
It’s a great feeling to go on that first real ride. You should have a big grin that will last for several days. I hope you have added some padding to the seat area.
Was warm enough this week that I rolled my trike out one evening for a short 20 mile ride.
I use ny-lok nuts on all my suspension and steering bolts. Are you familiar with the little electronic device named Speedo Healer? It will allow you to enter a value to correct the stock speedo.
Jim
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Post by captainamerica on Apr 12, 2014 21:54:21 GMT -5
I was unaware, but that would be nice. I have not added padding as of yet, I was using a bath towel behind my back to deal with the heat but it pushes me forwards and my knees start to bump the dash. Hopefully wrapping the exhaust will help with the temps and make the radiator heat load a little easier, although I have had no issue so far with the temperature of the trike. It hovers about 210-225. Right now my two main concerns are how short the clutch throw is which make starting quite a pain and how uncomfortable my seat is, I think I could get along without padding if I just shape the area around my hips better, currently I slide forward against the two inward facing plates and it causes two stress points instead of comfortably spreading the force. So some things to think about, I also shortened the shifter and made a little cap for it out of tubing and a piece of scrap to make the top, followed by grinder smoothing. By the way the nuts that came loose were nylocks, I switch the important ones (lower upright mount) over to all metal lock nuts. I am not sure if the A-arm nuts were my failure to properly tighten because both nuts on one a-arm were loose, all others were tight, but the lower upright on the drivers side was almost off the bolt and its mounted in an upward position meaning that lose would have put the bolt into the rim and probably would have lost the wheel and worse. Today everything looked good though so I will just have to keep an eye on it, my life is in my hands Just purchased the speedo healer, thanks for the suggestion. It thought I went 115 miles today. Also to the forum here, suggestions on camera placement and mounting, I have been mounting to the roll hoop which works but you don't see much of the trike, but more importantly its bouncy and the noise in all positions is pretty bad, it catches the same thing I hear but with a ton of low end static that ruins the video in my opinion. I mounted the A-arm which gave an interesting |
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Post by mtntech on Apr 12, 2014 22:23:01 GMT -5
Blue Loctite (242)
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Post by stretchmobileski on Apr 12, 2014 23:16:48 GMT -5
Right now my two main concerns are how short the clutch throw is which make starting quite a pain and how uncomfortable my seat is, I think I could get along without padding if I just shape the area around my hips better, currently I slide forward against the two inward facing plates and it causes two stress points instead of comfortably spreading the force. So some things to think about, I also shortened the shifter and made a little cap for it out of tubing and a piece of scrap to make the top, followed by grinder smoothing. Time for a BFH. |
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Post by Liteway on Apr 13, 2014 8:47:37 GMT -5
Best if you can attach the video recorder to the side of your helmet. I have relatively heavy family Sony camcorder. I made an aluminum bracket out of .050. 1.5" wide, 3.5" long, bent 90 degrees in the middle. One leg bolts to the camcorder at the tripod mount, the other is simply duct taped to the side of the helmet. Put down a layer of duct tape on the helmet first to prevent scratching. Use Gorilla brand duct tape. Will not come loose. Attaching the camera to your helmet instead of the trike allows your body to absorb much of the vibration, and gives a better prospective at to what the rider is seeing. www.youtube.com/watch?v=umgCjnjhoJw What does the "B" and "H" stand for? |
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Post by mtntech on Apr 13, 2014 10:31:09 GMT -5
Big Hammer
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Post by Liteway on Apr 13, 2014 11:41:19 GMT -5
I should have been able to figure that one out.
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Post by mtntech on Apr 13, 2014 12:38:42 GMT -5
I should have been able to figure that one out. Don't feel bad. First thing that came to my mind was.......Big Hug! |
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Post by jim99 on Apr 13, 2014 13:58:01 GMT -5
Hi Andy,
Some race car drivers “foam” their seats. The foam is a two part mix that foams up about twenty times the mixed amount.
The drivers that have an alum seat with a vinyl cover mix the foam and pour it into a plastic bag, place it under the cover and sit in it while the foam foams up. The foam will seek out the lowest resistance spot, filling any void between your body and the seat.
This will give you a 100% load bearing seat, no pressure points. I did this with my race cars, though the foam is quite hard, it will be very comfortable.
The seat area in my race cars was very large, as we did not use a purchased seat, rather a fabricated area like your trike seat area. We would mix about a gallon of foam to make a seat. Yours will take very little, as it is small compared to the seat area I would foam. Our seats had about six inches of width on each side from hip to sheet metal side of seat.
You could do several small bags to fill certain pressure points if you fit the seat area tightly.
Seat fabrication points:
- Have other people to help, minimum one if not two.
- Plan ahead, as you do not have a lot of time before foam starts to expand.
- Foam will heat up as it cross links, (about 110 deg f) Be prepared, no bare skin.
- Sit exactly as you would drive the trike until the foam is hard. Plan on wallet in pocket or not. Hold on to steering wheel as driving. Keep legs held as driving. Do not relax.
- Use rubber gloves and do not get mixed foam on bare skin. (nasty stuff)
- Use heavy thick plastic bags, or double bag thin ones.
- Do not seal or tie bags shut, they may burst (real ugly mess)
- After foam hardens cut excess off, carve shape to suit, paint color of choice with house paint.
-
Jim
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