Engine is a 2001 GSXR 750cc. As I recieved licsen plates late this fall I have not had too many chances to drive it yet. Hoping for an early spring.
My goal is to continue working on it over winter making several minor changes and after getting some miles on it next year I would like to build bodywork for it.
Right now I'm using a 17 tooth front and a 50 tooth rear sprocket.
I used a very scientific method in regard to sprocket selection. Those were the sprockets I had laying around in my shop. I need to get some miles on trike before I settle on final sprocket selection.
The 17/50 is about 20 lower gear ratio than stock. Stock bike is capable of insane speed, I do not need that kind of top end, but would be nice to have more than enough bottom end. "If some is good, more is better and way too much is just right".
I use a Speedo Healer to correct speedo error and the percent I had to program into healer was 19.9%. Not sure how accurate that is as stated before, no miles on build to speak of.
A lot of the design and many of the parts came from my open wheel race car. Having built four of those and one that was a four time class championship car a lot of what I use for parts and design has already been well tested.
This is a picture of the brake rotors I machined for the trike. 10" dia. with Wilwood calipers.
What a fantastic job you did. You will be the envy of lots of people, that is for sure, myself included. Would you please contact me off list? I just want to chat about our Wisconsin connection ... nothing of much interest to anyone else ... Thanks again for a great job!
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Reverse is a work in progress. I'm toying with the idea of using a starter motor or a 12v winch motor on a hinge using bolt holes of original bike swing arm. Mount a smaller sprocket on motor shaft and have mechanism to lower it down onto chain when reverse is needed and raise when not needed.
Plan test set up to be wired with a spare motorcycle starter motor solenoid and use dash mounted toggle switch to power on and off.
Reverse drive sprocket would need to be lowered onto chain before engaging reverse and stopped before lifting sprocket off chain.
Fear I have is this type of set up may be to harsh when switch for reverse is actuated. Causing uncomfortable movement for occupants of trike.
The possibility of the sprocket pushing out of the chain under load is very likely. I do not know how much I will load the reverse sprocket to move trike, depends a lot on grade and load.
At this point in time my plan is to use a cable to pull sprocket down into chain and a heavy duty rheostat to turn reverse on/off and control speed. Reverse assembly would return to home (disengaged position) via compression springs.
Cable will be controlled by a driver actuated lever with a ratchet mechanism to hold sprocket onto chain (parking brake style).
I do not have all the details worked out yet and design is changing each time I work on it, will keep posting as I get system working.
jim99...I really enjoyed your pics on photobucket...it must me nice to have those kind of tools available to use...I am seriously jealous...you must have many years in machine work experience...that trike must have took a lot of years to construct...did you CAD design before cutting? or did you just make a template and go that route?
YOUR WORK IS A-1, TOP NOTCH!!
Dave
Just because it looks pretty on the out side doesn't mean it will get you from point A to point B...know what you drive and take care of what you know!
The fenders are trailer fenders from local supplier, 9" wide, $23.48 each. Pioneer Rim & Wheel Madison, WI
I have about 80% of the trike in a CAD system. There was a fair amount of on the fly change, as needed and not added to CAD drawing.
Took about a year from concept drawings to finish. This coming summer I hope to start on a body, but it is titled, plated and insured so I can have some fun driving it next summer.
Would like to get some miles on it before I start body, as there may be redesign needed.
CAD is the only way to build, paper is a lot cheaper than metal.
Picture of shop.
Having CAD/CAM and CNC mill, manual mill and engine lathe helps me to make just about anything I want.
Also do a little aluminum anodizing of the aluminum parts I machine.
Front hub for small open wheel race car anodized black with gold (orange) anodized nut.
Rear hub
Back to trike, picture of spin fixture for painting and welding, just two engine stands.
I wish I had your CAD expertise!...I have a really hard time trying to put on paper what I have in my head...it's a talent I guess I acquired from child hood...I once entered one of those drawings of the pirate they used to advertise in the TV guide back in the 80's when I was 10 yrs old...I drew it at least 5 times bigger then they had it in the TV guide...after about 6 weeks I got a certified letter from the school of arts that advertised the drawing...well, they said that I blew it up with a copier and traced it!?...my Mom was highly pissed at the assumption cuz she saw me draw it herself...that's the level of detail I have in my head when I visualize a build project...it's just too much detail for me to put on paper cuz I think of everything at once...when I build from scratch, I just start building the finished product...I am always thinking of every detail as I build...I just wish I can put it down on paper...sometimes it gets frustrating, but I just keep on building...I learned a long time ago to tack a part before final welding.
My Ford Aspire project is one that I have visualized in my head...I wish I could sit down and draw the finished product, but I can only tell you that it will look awesome and come out very nice.
Dave
Just because it looks pretty on the out side doesn't mean it will get you from point A to point B...know what you drive and take care of what you know!
CAD takes an up front investment of time to pay rewards later. I use a cheap (at the time) $29.00 software named QuickCad, now named TurboCad.
If you do try to learn CAD, start with a simple part. Something like your Aspire project would be a hard one to start with. But maybe some of the smaller (simpler) weldments would be a good starting place.
As I stated in last post I make changes on the fly and do not go back and add to drawing. Usually comes back to bite me at a later date.
jim99...thanks for the reply...I had the CAD sketch software but I feel that it is much faster for me to sketch it down on paper and go that route...it's much easier to make changes with an eraser...LOL
I guess I'm just too old fashioned to learn the computer stuff...when I was in the Navy back in 1989 I became a draftsman...all we did was design the spaces aboard our ship for the HT's to build when one division swapped out for another space...I had a really nice table with slide rulers and such...tech pens and ultrasonic cleaners were the norm back then...but the civilian dept. on base had high tech Mac PC's...we were like 20 yrs. behind technology back then...LOL
So I will just stick with what I know for now...maybe some day when I hit the big lottery will I shell out big bucks for the right training school.
Dave
Just because it looks pretty on the out side doesn't mean it will get you from point A to point B...know what you drive and take care of what you know!