New member and I will be posting my reverse trike build here

[no1uno]

Hello,

    I live in Southwest VA. and I am in the process of building a reverse trike of my own design.
I have about halfway done with the project and came across this site. I will be posting pictures here and showing my progress as I move forward.

Here is the project in a nutshell....

I have a completed and built 1978 Spitfire frame, engine and a basic rolling chassis at this time. the rear wheel if off a 2006 Suzuki GSXR Motorcycle
this includes the swing arm, and chain drive, brake system and 17 inch wheel.

working on mounting that now so I can have a rolling frame work to build the body on. I am taking the body and using the floor pan that will be narrowed and then refit to the original frame for strenght and then use foam to build the body and then fiberglass over it.

What is done? The engine, frame, front suspension steering and other small items

What is left? build the body, mount the back wheel up, get the rear tire on (225/45/17 on the MT rim) it did use a 190/50/17 and do the wiring for the RT....
I have a full wiring harness I bought so it would make it easier to work on this project.

More to come as this weekend will be plasma cutting to get to the shape I need out of the bodies for trial fitting on the frame...

should be interesting..

If you need you can contact me at [e-mail] for more details but I will start posting pictures here.

Thank you,
Robert

[1983JZR3W]

Sounds like a good project. Please keep us up to date and welcome to the forum.

[no1uno]

thanks, and looking forward to creating this new monster!

[stretchmobileski]

To quote other forums, "pictures or it didn't happen." We need to see it, nice big clear pictures please.

[no1uno]

You will be sorry you asked..... I post a lot of detail, I just got home from picking up a Plasma cutter so I can chop the body up a bit to use the floor pan and other items out of the original body of the 1978 Spitfire...

When I started it

Well I bought the little car in Nov. of 2010 with Grand hopes of making this my last car rebuild from the ground up, so far my good luck has been perfect. No rust, no rusted bolts and everything seems to work. That makes for a good begining.

First step was to get the car apart starting with the front end, motor and all the hoses! From there was to check the parts and see what if any were still useful.

The only part that I see that is and was a problem was the exhaust manifold was cracked but not all the way through, thank God I am using a new header instead of the old manifold!

I am going to redo the head myself and send off the long block to the engine rebuilders since I do not have all of the right equipment to make sure it is bullet proof going forward.

The head work will be the following:
1 Alloy Valve Cap Set
4 Valve Exhaust Spit
4 Valve Intake 1500
1 Valve Guide Set Bronze
1 Valve Spring Set Dual Spit
1 Head Set Payen Spitfire
1 Valve Cover Polished Spitfire

Still have to order more parts, but I will be porting and polishing the heads to match the new intake and carb (Weber system) plus the new header.

So Far this is the stuff I have bought and working on more each week...

Part Number RFK1341 Full front suspension rebuild kit with urethane

2-7768 COOLING FAN REMOUNT KIT 1 4.95 4.95 In Stock
2-7769 ADJUSTABLE THERMOSTAT 1 19.95 19.95 In Stock
2-7765 10" ELECTRIC COOLING FAN 1 69.95 69.95 In Stock
12-341 HEX NUT 5/16 UNF A/R 2 0.45 0.90 In Stock
12-3685 SPRING LOCK WASHER A/R 2 0.35 0.70 In Stock
14-663 FLAT WASHER-SML 5/16 X 5/8 A/R 2 0.35 0.70 In Stock
5-522 ENGINE MOUNT REAR 2 REQ 2 3.95 7.90 In Stock
12-363 NYLOCK NUT-3/8 UNF A/R 4 0.50 2.00 In Stock
12-373 NYLOCK NUT-THIN-3/8 UNF A/R 2 0.45 0.90 In Stock
14-398 FLAT WASHER-SML 3/8 X 3/4 A/R 2 0.15 0.30 In Stock
5-528 ENGINE MOUNT FRONT 2 REQ 2 5.95 11.90 In Stock


Gas Shocks kit1887-KG9125-KG9125-KG3198-KG3198

Front springs 1 Front Spring Set Uprated Spitfire 71-80 PN:TT4302

713511 T58S35 STUD,SNAP 15 of them
554407 T48M57 RIVET,IMEX,SNAP TO CARB 15 of them
612962 T46S15G13 PIN,BONNET LOCATING 2 of them

Eastwood Concours HVLP Primer/Base Gun 1.2-1.8
1/2" Universal Soda Blasting Retro Fit Kit

1 Alloy Valve Cap Set Spitfire PN:TT12164cyl
4 Valve Exhaust Spit 67-80, 1500 Midget PN:V34289
4 Valve Intake 1500 PN:V34978
1 Valve Guide Set Bronze TR 4-Cyl,Midget 1500 PN:TT1419
1 Valve Spring Set Dual Spit, Midget 1500 PN:VS6624
1 Head Set Payen Spitfire 72-80, Midget 1500 PN:CK261P
1 Valve Cover Polished Spitfire, Midget 1500 PN:GAC4067

WELDING HELMET AUTO-DARKENING
SODA BLAST MEDIA MEDIUM 50LB
SODA BLAST MEDIA MEDIUM 50LB
SODA BLAST MEDIA MEDIUM 50LB
90 AMP FLUX WIRE WELDER

This not counting the other parts that have not made the list so far. Like the Weber carb and intake, the rear spring, the header, radiator, hoses etc...
I have a closet full of new parts awaiting their turn to go on.

There is so much to do but I will take it one step at a time and do the best that I can to get the ole girl perfect again.

I am selling off parts that I do not need like the Top, the fan and clutch for the engine cooling and sun visors etc... This ole girl will be a roadster full and proper.

More to come as I move along, just watch for the photos and enjoy the reading, I hope it helps someone out there who needs it.

Thank you,
Robert

[no1uno]

In this picture you will notice the plastic tub under the gas tank, the PO used to drive around with a small leak in the gas tank! WOW... as you can tell it has been doing it for a while since the paint is gone under the gas tank. Less stripping I guess. I had to order a new gas tank so it just came in with the new wiring, sensor and tank... amazing each time you work on something you find something you have to buy!!!

The tank is going to come out tomorrow and going to the garbage dump!

I have taken off the carb, the intake and exhaust manifold the radiator and other parts that you will see in the next pictues that I will take tonight.

This may be a long drawn out process with picturs but you get to see the progress and the concerns that I experience as I go through this.

Thank you for looking,
Robert

[no1uno]

I have the intake / exhaust and radiator out of the car.. moving on to the little things that clutter up the area. So far no bolts that have been difficult to remove just a lot of dirt and grease! Just getting the bolts off the intake and exhaust are a pain, hard to get to and slow in removing but I got through it. I was able to remove the studs with no problems, one nut against the other and they come right out!
I am going to polish up the new intake and get that to a mirror finish to make the car look better.

On order are all the parts I need to work on the head, more pictures to come.

Before

[no1uno]

Just received the new radiator.... nice to see something new!

[no1uno]

Just received my latest toy, now I can pull my own engine when needed.
Harbor Freight 2 Ton engine lift. It was on sale for 137.00 delivered!!!! Nice.
Getting ready to lift the engine out of the ole girl.. then buy more parts.....again.

[no1uno]

Attachment Deleted

[no1uno]

Well the engine is out and ready to be rebuilt, I took the transmission out at the same time. Amazing not one hard bolt in the entire process, it was like she wanted to coome out and was ready for me. Here are the pictures to show you the day I spent with my spitfire.



Finally the weather was good enough to take out my motor, I was amazed at how simple it was to slip out of the car, a little crank on the hoist and a nudge here and there and out it came no issues no fuss. Not even any dripping fluids either. Today was a good day.

[no1uno]

I even had color cordinated chains to match the orange on the hoist! Do not laugh they were the matching set to the hoist. Simple to work with and easy to adjust.

[no1uno]

As you will notice no rust the discoloration is the carpet glue and seam gunk, otherwise I am very happy with the condition of the floors and interior.

[no1uno]

Again more shots of the inside of the car with no signs of rust or concerns, the excitment is growing and the work is getting easier.

[no1uno]

 The new wiring harness for the three wheeler



Not bad for 259.00 and it gives me all of this...

Motor Kill Switch Built Into Fuse Panel
Fuse Panel w/ Metal Backing for extra strength
Stainless Steel Fuse Cover
Fuse Panel Connections Soldered
Speaker Wire Built into Harness
Custom Extras :

KW22 Standard

When your project is fully optioned..

The toughest kit for rewiring about anything with the all the accessories like Radio, Cigarette Lighter, Power Windows, Door Locks, etc.

The Kwik Wire 22 kit includes:

20 Prewired and Fused Circuits
Pre-wired Fuse Panel

Lighting Group
High / Low Beam / Parking Lights
Turn Signal
Hazard Lights
Horn
Cooling Fan


Dash Group
Column or Key on Dash
Ignition Hot
Signal Indicators (L&R)
Voltmeter / Amp Meter
Hazards
Gauge power
Neutral Safety
Accessory #1
Cruise Control/Back-up


Interior Group
Cigarette Lighter
Gauge Power
Interior Lights
Dash Lights
Radio (Constant)
Radio (Switched)
Wipers
A/C - Heater Fan
Power Windows (L&R)
Power Doors (L&R)


Motor Group
Alternator
Alternator Exciter
Neutral Safety
Distributor
Choke
Horn
Temp Sending
Oil Sending
Tachometer


Tail Group
Dome Light
Brake Lights
Fuel Pump
Fuel Gauge
Parking/Turn lights


50 Amp fused circuit for
Charging / Alternator Circuit
Starter / Ignition


12 ATO Fuses
Speaker Wire included in harness
Engine Kill Switch at fuse block
Prewired Flasher Unit
Prewired Hazard Unit
Prewired Horn Relay
Compact easy to hide design
Prewired turn signal circuit
Panel connections crimped & soldered for reliability
Powder coated steel base for a solid installation
Brushed steel fuse cover
All wires labeled by circuit & color coded to match GM factory wiring color codes
Instruction Booklet
Toll Free Phone Tech Support

Now the cool part, I am going to install the fuse block in the battery tray and put a cover over it,and place the battery in the trunk.

And this same time next week the motor is going into the shop to be dealt with from top to bottom....

Now I can work on the frame, designing the roll bar and working on the welds on the frame, getting the junk off the car and going towards a cleaner more reliable cruiser for the weekends...

There are times that I look at this whole project and feel over whelmed but I just take a step back, slow down and take a deep breath and do one item at a time. Because if I do it right it will be the last time I have to it for a long time!

I hope my information is helpful to others doing the same thing I am..

Take care more to come later...

Robert

[no1uno]

Here are a couple more shots of things I did today, I went ahead and painted both the intake manifold, since trying to polish it did not work out too many imperfections in the sand casting to be happy with and the other is a picture of the new header. Both are painted with High temp 2000 degree primer and paint. They turned out better than the photos show.

Getting parts ready for the engine builder! I hope he does not scratch them, LOL

Thanks for looking!
Robert

[no1uno]

More EZ2Wire...

[no1uno]

To give you an idea of where this is going, here is a shot of the wiring harness just laid up on the area to be mounted... Fits flush and with a nice cover and holes cut it should be a different way of wiring things up and it even has a coil cut off switch so if I am working (if?) in the engine area I can cut off the power to the coil... for me that is a wise idea!!

[no1uno]

Well we just got back from Danville Va, taking the Spitfire motor in to get rebuilt.
Nice group of guys, love the shop, everything from rebuilts to race engines. In the pictures you will see the person off loading my engine, he will be the same guy who will rebuild it from the ground up. We are going towards a dark blue block and reworking the heads etc.. should be interesting as it moves along.

Pictures below, enjoy them.

Thank you,
Robert

[no1uno]

I just got the new starter in. Here are a few pictures for your review.

As you will notice on the bottom right side of the starter is the bolt my new wiring harness will attach to for the HOT from the battery, getting away from the starter solenoid. (Good bye old pain the A@@) and on the right side of the starter is the male plug for the ignition switch wire to attach to.

Cleaning up the wiring by doing this and also some of my help is coming from Leighton from BP NORTHWEST, they have been supplying me with most of my parts at the best prices that I can find. They might not have everything I need but for what I do need their prices are good.

The help I get is worth its weight in gold as far as I am concerned.

Here are the pictures and a video of how to install from BP NORTHWEST

Thanks for looking as always!
More to come,
Robert